Radon Mitigation

Radon System Repair in Minneapolis, MN

Radon fans run around the clock for years and then stop, and because nothing else in the house changes, almost nobody notices. The U-tube gauge on the pipe exists so that you can — level columns mean no suction. In Minnesota we also see cold-weather failures: condensate frozen in an exterior fan, a discharge iced over, a pipe that sags and fills with water. And we see a lot of post-2009 houses where the passive pipe was never fitted with a fan or tested. In every case we measure before we quote, because the reading tells you what is actually broken.

Fans Fail Quietly

A radon fan runs every minute of every day for years, and when it stops nothing in the house changes. The basement looks the same, there is no smell and no alarm. The only sign is the U-tube gauge on the pipe: with the fan pulling, the fluid sits at two different heights; with it stopped, the columns level out. Checking it takes five seconds, and the start of every heating season is a good habit.

Cold-Weather Failures

Minnesota adds failure modes that milder states rarely see. Condensate freezes inside an exterior fan housing. Ice builds up on a discharge until it partly blocks the pipe. A horizontal pipe run with too little slope fills with water that freezes into a plug. Fans on exposed exterior walls work harder through a long winter. When we repair a system with any of these problems, the fix usually involves rerouting or re-sloping the pipe, not just replacing the fan.

Passive Systems That Need a Fan

Houses built since June 2009 have a passive radon pipe from under the slab to the attic. Without a fan it works only by natural draft, which is strongest in the coldest weather and weakest the rest of the year. If a test shows the passive system is not enough, activating it — a fan on the attic section of the pipe, an electrical connection and a gauge — is usually a short job. We check the pipe from slab to roof first, because a passive pipe that was cut, capped or buried during construction changes the plan.

Systems That Were Never Right

Some systems were undersized for the fill under the slab, have a suction point cut off by a later addition, or discharge somewhere they should not — beside a window or under the eaves. A new fan will not fix a design problem. We test the house, measure suction across the slab and tell you plainly whether you are looking at a worn part or a system that needs rethinking.

Test Before, Test After

Every repair starts with a reading, so the price is based on what is actually wrong, and ends with a retest to show the number came down. If the diagnosis points to a new design, it gets priced as a mitigation system, not as a repair.

How long does it take? A straight fan replacement is a short visit. Anything that turns out to be a design problem rather than a worn part is priced as the work it actually is.

Questions People Ask First

How do I know if my fan has failed?
Look at the U-shaped gauge on the pipe. When the fan is pulling, the two columns of fluid sit at different heights; level columns mean no suction. It takes five seconds and is worth doing at the start of every heating season.
My new-construction house has a pipe but no fan. Is that broken?
It is a passive system — Minnesota has required one in new homes since June 2009. It is not broken, but it only works by natural draft. A test tells you whether that is enough; if not, adding a fan is usually a much smaller job than a full system.
Can you fix a system another company installed?
Yes, and a lot of this work is exactly that. We test it first. Sometimes it is a worn fan on a sound system; sometimes the system never worked. The reading separates the two.
My readings went up after we remodelled. Why?
The house changed. New windows, a basement finish, a furnace or water heater swap, or an addition over part of the slab all change how the house pulls air or how gas moves under the floor. Tell us what work was done — it usually points straight at the answer.

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