Radon Mitigation
A radon system does not filter the air and does not seal the house shut. It gives soil gas an easier way out than your floor. A pipe goes down through the slab into a small pit in the fill underneath; a fan holds that space at slightly lower pressure than the basement; and the gas that used to come through the floor drain and the wall joint goes up the pipe instead and out above the roof. In Minnesota the details that decide whether it keeps working are cold-weather details — where the fan sits, how the pipe handles condensation, and whether the discharge can ice up.
The system is simple in principle. A hole is cored through the basement floor and a small pit is dug out of the fill beneath it. A sealed pipe runs from that pit to a fan, and the fan holds the space under the concrete at a slightly lower pressure than the room above. Soil gas follows the pressure: instead of rising through the wall joint, the sump basket or a crack, it is drawn into the pipe and discharged above the roof edge where it disperses. How far that suction reaches depends on what is under the slab, which is why we test the sub-slab material before settling on a design.
The air a radon system pulls from under a slab is warm and damp. On a January night that moisture condenses in the pipe, and anywhere it can collect it can freeze — at an exterior fan, in a sagging horizontal run, or as a cap of ice on the discharge. Minnesota systems are built around that: pipe sloped so condensate drains back down to the slab, fans placed where they stay serviceable, and wherever the house allows, a route through the attached garage or an interior closet to the attic rather than up an exposed outside wall. An interior route costs more and keeps working in February.
Twin Cities basements come with built-in shortcuts to the soil. Sump baskets sit over perimeter drain tile. Older houses have floor drains whose traps dry out. Block walls meet the floor with an open joint. Every one of those lets the fan pull basement air instead of soil gas, which weakens the system and — in a state where you heat the house for half the year — sends paid-for warm air out of the roof. Sealing them is part of the install, not an upsell.
Every new Minnesota home since June 2009 has been built with a passive radon system: gravel or a venting mat under the slab, a sealed pipe running up through the house, and usually a labelled pipe in the attic with space to add a fan. Passive systems rely on natural draft and are rarely tested. When one reads high, activating it — adding a fan in the attic and a gauge on the pipe — is a much smaller job than building a system from nothing, and it is the first thing we look for in any house from the last fifteen years.
Every system we install gets a U-tube gauge so a dead fan is visible at a glance, and every system gets a retest once it has run long enough for the pressure under the slab to settle. The before and after readings go to you together. Under Minnesota's disclosure law those two documents are exactly what a future buyer will ask to see.
How long does it take? Most single-family systems go in inside a day. Complicated foundations — several slabs at different levels, an addition, a crawlspace tied in — can run to two.
These usually come up in the same conversation:
A continuous monitor in the lowest lived-in level for at least 48 hours, logging every hour — a curve you can read, not one number that might be a fluke.
Learn More →An open sump basket or a dry floor drain is a direct line to the soil. Sealing them is what lets a system work — and where cheap installs cut corners.
Learn More →A second test once the system has been running. Included with every install, and available on its own for a system nobody has checked.
Learn More →Free · No Obligation
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